I/51TnVU4h%2BYL.jpg' alt='Torx Driver Set Harbor Freight' title='Torx Driver Set Harbor Freight' />Cordless Drill Improving the Battery 4 Steps with PicturesCapacity The new batteries are rated at 3. AH, so expect more than twice the run time than the original pack. You may wonder will the higher capacity hurt the tool No the important thing here is that the voltage is the same, but you may end up working the tool harder with the increased capacity, so dont over do it. Ive been using it for about a year and a half, and its been excellent. Charging Since my old charger is expecting to charge 1. S54 Vanos Solenoid Procedure E46 M3 The following information is provided for reference purposes only and should be used at your own risk. I really like this screwdriver. It actually works great on the JIS screws that I have previously stripped out with regular tools. Brandon I did order a set of four. MAH Ni. Cads, it will require a much longer charging time. The spec sheet that comes with your new batteries should help you here. Also checkout batteryuniversity. A better charging method may increase your battery life. Why do the batter packs die Ive been analyzing the old cells, and Ive noticed that several of the cells are bad, but many of them are ok it only takes one dud to render a battery pack useless. EO0/hqdefault.jpg' alt='Torx Driver Set Harbor Freight' title='Torx Driver Set Harbor Freight' />Since the drill came with two battery packs, I can combine the good ones to make a second working pack. Download Game Red Alert 2 Portable Gratis on this page. The old cells can be tested as shown below the important part here is the load. Ive used a flashlight bulb as a load which also server as a visual indicator of the batterys charge. I/51elsqS3zGL.jpg' alt='Torx Driver Set Harbor Freight' title='Torx Driver Set Harbor Freight' />Testing without the load will give useless results. Ive seen some cells read 1. Economics A good mod should be economical too Sears wants 4. I paid about 7. 5 for the tool with two batteries so why is a replacement so expensive So with this mod, I get a better battery for 2. Safety notes Like many of the projects here on instructables, there are potential safety problems if you dont know what you are doing so if you dont know your series circuits from your parallel circuits STOPAlso beware any leaking chemicals from bad cells. Also make sure your soldering skills are sufficient before working on this project. A reader from Makezines blog noted that one of the solder tabs is thinner than the others this acts as a fuse make sure you include the fuse in your completed pack. Environmental issues dispose used Ni. Cad cells properly. Your new Hi. Mh batteries are more environmentally friendly though some still recommend re cycling. How to replace your Mk. IVs front wheel bearings. So, at this point I assume you have the necessary supplies, tools, a front wheel bearing kit and know which bearing is bad. Since I only get 1. I have skipped some of the easy steps. If you need help with those, get someone else to do this for you, seriously. Put the front of the car up on jackstands. I prefer to put them under the subframe bolts. Remove the wheel. Take out the 2 caliper retaining bolts 7mm hex usually not in most hex key sets and hang the brake caliper up out of the way. Remove the brake disc retaining bolt this may be easier to do with the brake caliper still on and someone holding the brakes or with a screwdriver stuck into the vents to keep the rotor from turning thanks MOGolf. Mine was a Torx, which was a rolling change from the Philips head used previously. You may need a hand impact driver and hammer. Remove the disc. Also remove the three bolts and the dust shield. Bust loose the axle retaining nut with the 3. MOGolf reckons this may be easier to do with the car still on the ground with the wheel center cap removed definetely the case if you dont have an impact. You may also want to stick a screwdriver in the vents to keep the disc from rotating if you havent removed it yet. Scribe lines around the balljoint plate on the underside of the control arm and remove the 3 bolts holding it in. Since I live in the rust belt, it was painfully obvious where it attached and it wasnt necessary. This will help you line up the balljoint so you wont necessarily need an alignment afterwards. Assemble your big 3 jaw puller. Mine is a cheap six incher and worked fine. Squirt a little penetrating oil on the axle splines before you start and grease the threads of the puller. Have it grasp onto the meat of the hub, but not the ABS sensor wheel. Tighten the puller to push the axle out of the hub. Once the steering knuckle is free of the axle, it will swing out of the way. Gently lay the axleCV joint assembly down onto the top of the lower control arm. Now, take your slide hammer and put the shaft through the wheel hub. Put one of the hardened washers from the wheel bearing removal kit on the end and put the nut on the end. Stuart Little Game Pc. The next bit took a bit of balance. Whilst seated on a milk crate, I held the slide hammer up with my right hand, propped a foot against the steering knuckle to put a little bit of tension on the hammer and moved the slide weight with my left hand. Rose Has Teeth In The Mouth Of A Beast Rarest. Fiddly, but it worked. Three sharp raps and it started to move. Another few and it came right out. As shown below, L R. Nut. 2 Hardened washer. Hub with inner race stuck on it. Sliding hammer weight used left hand to move. Slide hammer handle used right hand to hold. And viola The wheel bearing is exposed. The outboard inner race is stuck on the hub and the inboard bearings and cage are shown here, still installed in the steering knuckle. Next, you get to remove the remainder of the bearing, and its gonna fight you every step of the way. Last edited by scurvy January 2nd, 2. Reason minor fixes for clarification.